Mini Quilt Made With Walking Foot and Guide Bar

It’s simple to make this 30 inch square, four block quilt top with a cuddly “minky’ fabric backing. You might think it takes ages to make a quilt? Picture a delightful handmade quilt top made with a heavenly soft backing. The best part? You can whip this quilt up in just one day. So grab your favorite fabrics and a walking foot, put on your creative hat and let’s embark on this quilting adventure together. This quilt tutorial is very detailed. It will guide you through all the steps to make this lovely and easy quilt top.

You will also learn how to use a walking foot. Using a walking foot to make this quilt is definitely the easy, fast and stress free way. You can use a walking foot to piece, quilt and bind a quilt. It’s like magic! No uneven seams. No free motion quilting. No bunched batting. No wrinkled backing. No creased or pinched quilt top. No uneven stitching.

Interested in buying a walking foot? We have a universal open toe walking foot in the Madam Sew online store.

Some of you may not have the supplies, fabric or are not fully prepared to do this project. Find out what you will need below in Supplies, Fabric and Getting Ready To Sew. Everyone else, please jump to “Section A”.

Supplies

• Open Toe Walking Foot sole with Guide Bar
• White Thread for piecing
• Coordinating Thread for quilting and binding
• Quilting Pins
• Heat Erasable Marking Pens
• Rotary Cutter
• Cutting Mat
• Sewing Snips
• 6 x 6 Inch Square Quilting Ruler
• 6 x 24 Inch Quilting Ruler 
• Measuring Gauge
• Sewing Stiletto
• Thread Stand
• Wool Pressing Mat
• Ironing Mat
• Steam Iron
• Fabric Starch
• Quilting Gloves

Fabric (Width based on 44-45 inches)

• ¼ yard light cotton fabric [Cut (2) 6 inch Square Blocks]
• ¼ yard dark cotton fabric [Cut (2) 6 inch Square Blocks]
• ¼ yard coordinating fabric for Border 1 [Cut 3 inches wide by length of fabric (LOF)]
• ¼ yard coordinating fabric for Border 2 [Cut 6 inches wide by LOF]
• ¼ yard coordinating fabric for binding [Cut binding fabric 2 ½ inches wide by LOF]
• 3 yards minky fabric for quilt backing

This checklist has helped to make the process of sewing and quilting so much easier and stress free for me. You might like it too.

• Clean the lint from your sewing machine before each project. Check under the needle plate and in the bobbin holder.
• Start with full bobbins for piecing and quilting.
• Use a new needle for piecing (90/14 or 100/16 Topstitch Needle is recommended).
• Workstation: A “U” shaped workstation is ideal, it makes it easier to create the Quilter’s Workstation Triangle. What is a “Quilters Workstation Triangle”? Many are aware that the stove, sink, fridge triangle is the best room design for a small space kitchen. Quilters also have a workstation design that helps them keep the tools they will need within easy reach. The recommended three points of the Quilters Workstation Triangle are: The sewing machine in front of you; the pressing station to your preferred side (This depends on whether you are right-handed or left-handed) and your tools on the other side.
• Sewing Ergonomics: Don’t forget to make your quilting experience more enjoyable. Try adopting the correct posture shown in the illustration below.

                                                            Correct and incorrect sewing posture

The walking foot is the star of this project. The Walking Foot looks strange but don’t dismiss it. Once you get to know it you may adopt it as your favorite sewing machine foot. See the Madam Sew Walking Foot Manual for the full features of this wonderful presser foot

                                                                        The Versatile Walking Foot

The Open Sole of this Walking Foot gives you excellent visibility! No more guessing. Nothing beats being able to see exactly where the needle will pierce the fabric.

                                                        Open sole - Excellent visibility as you sew

The red markings give you great accuracy for the needle position, the needle stop positioning for corners and a wonderful alignment guide for your ¼ inch seam.

                                    Open Sole - Red Markings help with accurate positioning and pivoting

Behind the Needle Markings: ¼ inch behind the needle red markings on the far left and far right. (See the white boxes and arrows)

Needle Drop Positions: Far left, center and far right red marks (See the brown boxes and arrows)

Needle Stop Positioning: ⅛ inch and ¼ inch red marks in front of the needle (See the green). The ¼ inch marking is often used as the sewing stop – needle drop point for mitering the corners of binding.

Seam Alignment Positioning: ¼ inch vertical red marks on the foot sole. (See the yellow box and arrows) With the needle in the center position the vertical mark on the right sole provides a last check of the positioning of the fabric for a a consistent ¼ inch seam.

                                    Zig Zag Sole Opening - Easy to Switch from Straight To Zig Zag Stitch

The Open Sole Walking Foot works with both zig zag and straight stitch types. Just remember to change the needle plate to the appropriate stitch type. And its open design gives you great visibility has you sew.

                              Has its own feed dogs - evenly feeds the fabric under the needle as you sew

Keeping your sewing stitches parallel will be a must for the 4 block quilt you will create. The best foot for the job is the Open Sole Walking Foot with Guide Bar. Once you try it you will wonder how you ever managed without it.

Walking Foot with Guide Bar attached - Use to achieve accurate and evenly spaced parallel lines of stitches

The Quilt Top showing 4 Block Center Patch, Border 1 and Border 2

                                                                  Making the 4 Block Center Patch

Be Prepared!

This section is for quilters who love quilting but hate gathering supplies, fabric and notions. Picking fabric – fun! Trying out new sewing notions – fun! Starching, ironing and cutting fabric – not fun! So why not get the part you like the least out your way? Invest your time in preparation and the dividend will be time spent in uninterrupted quiltmaking. Ask me how I know this.

Piecing Prep List

• Needle Plate: Zig Zag (You may need to adjust the needle position to achieve an accurate ¼ inch.)
• Stitch Type: Straight Stitch
• Stitch Length: 2.0 (This length makes a stronger seam.)
• Stitch Width: 0.0
• Needle: 90/14 Top Stitch Needle
• Needle and Bobbin Thread: White Cotton 40 WT
• Attach the Walking Foot without the Guide Bar
• Check that the needle position is ¼ inch from the right of the walking foot sole
• Remember to use a leader fabric for smooth stitches at the beginning of your sewing. (Definition: A leader fabric is a small piece of fabric that you place at the beginning of your seam.) Start sewing on the leader fabric and then properly align your fabric as you approach the needle. Any thread nests will be caught on the leader fabric and not your seam!)
• Hold the needle thread to the side of the walking foot as you take your first stitches. (This will also avoid thread nesting.)

                                                                    Fabric Aligned Under The Needle

Sew Row 1 of the 4 Block Center Patch.

Sew one light fabric 6 inch square to one dark fabric 6 inch square. (With the right side facing you, the dark block is on the left and the light block is on the right.)

Have your stiletto ready to help align the fabric as needed.

Use your steam iron to press the seam towards the dark block.

Tip:

Save time and get beautifully flat blocks by using a wool pressing mat on top of your ironing surface. And make sure that your ironing surface is much larger than the wool mat, this will protect nearby surfaces from moisture damage. Note: Steam and moisture may seep through the mat so protect wood or other sensitive surfaces. Ask me how I know this!

Pieced and ironed Row 1 Blocks on top of wool pressing mat with seam pressed toward the dark block.

Sew Row 2 of the 4 Block Center Patch

Sew one dark fabric 6 inch square to one light fabric 6 inch square.

Use your steam iron to press the seam toward the dark block.

Row 2 Blocks on top of wool pressing mat with seam pressed toward the dark block

Then nest your seams. Remember to check the orientation of the blocks. You want a checkerboard pattern of dark and light.

Front & Back Close Up of Row 1 and Row 2 stitched nested seams.

Sew 2 inches before and 2 inches after the nested seam. Then check the front to determine whether the seam is aligned properly, if not, rip it out and redo. (It is better to rip out 4 inches of stitches than the entire seam!) This sew and check method will result in perfect seams. See more about nested seams in the Madam Sew Blog: Beginning Quilting - Basics, Tools and A Simple Block.

Well Done! The 4 Block Center Patch is pieced! When sewn to Border 1, it will measure 11 inches Square.

                                                                      Pieced 4 Block Center Patch

Tip:

If you leave the Straight Stitch Needle Plate on your machine and move the needle position from the center, then at the first stitch you make your needle will crash into the needle plate and break. Ask me how I know this!

Piecing Border 1 - How To Sew Border 1 to the 4 Block Center Patch

First, sew the left border and then the right border. Trim the borders so that they are even.

Then, sew the top border and then the bottom border. Trim the borders so that they are even.

Great Work! Border 1 is Pieced! After Border 1 is sewn to Border 2 it should measure 2.5 inches wide.

                                                              Border 1 Sewn To 4 Block Center Patch

Piecing Border 2 - How To Sew Border 2 to Border 1

First, sew the left border and then the right border. Trim the borders so that they are even.

Then,sew the top border and then the bottom border. Trim borders so that they are even.

You’re doing great! Border 2 is pieced! Border 2 should measure 5.75 inches wide.

                                                      Quilt top showing pieced Border 1 and Border 2

Cut the Minky Fabric 2 inches larger than the quilt top.

Place the Minky Fabric backing – wrong side facing you – on a flat surface large enough to accommodate the entire quilt. Place the quilt top on top of the backing. The right side should be facing you. Grab your bunch of long, sharp flat head pins and have them handy.

Starting in the center of the quilt sandwich, smooth and pin diagonally, horizontally and vertically. Add pins where needed, the distance between the pins should be approximately the size of your fist.

Tip:

Place a foam ear plug on the sharp end of the pin. It will save you from painful pin sticks as you handle the quilt sandwich.

                                                              Close up Of The Pinned Quilt Sandwich

4 Block Center Patch Quilting Prep List

• Needle Plate: Zig Zag
• Stitch Type: Zig Zag
• Alter the stitch length to create a wavy line. (Use a long scrap of fabric to test and adjust the stitch setting to your liking.) Make a note of the stitch pattern, stitch width and stitch length settings on the test fabric scrap. Save this for your future use.
• Stitch Width: 5.5
• Needle: Quilting Needle
• Needle Thread: White Cotton (For a non-traditional quilting pattern look, try a needle thread that contrasts or blends with your quilt top.)
• Bobbin Thread: A thread that matches the color of your Minky quilt backing. It will blend in nicely.
• Attach the Walking Foot with Guide Bar.
• Adjust the Walking Foot Guide Bar 1.5 inches from the needle position.
• It is a good practice to start quilting from the middle of the quilt extending out to Border 1. This will help you avoid unwanted puckers and wrinkles. Important: Do not quilt Border 1.
• Raise the bobbin thread and give yourself a long thread tail for easier knot and thread tail burying later.
• Bring the needle and bobbin thread tails to the back of the walking foot to avoid them getting tangled in your stitches.
• Hold the needle and bobbin threads as you take your first stitches. (This will avoid thread nesting on the back of the quilt.)

You are ready to quilt the 4 Block Center Patch

Sew your first line of wavy line stitches. If you can manually adjust the speed of your sewing stitches, then change the sewing speed to 50%. It is better to sew slower as you learn this method.

At the end of your stitches – raise your bobbin thread and give yourself a long thread tail for easier knot and thread tails burying.

Congratulations you are quilting with a Walking Foot! Use the above method to quilt the entire width of the 4 Block Center Patch.

                                                  Close up of 4 Block Center Patch Wavy Line Quilting

Next we will create a vertical line quilting pattern that looks like piano keys.

Border 1 Quilting Prep List

• Needle Plate: Straight Stitch
• Stitch Type: Straight Stitch
• Stitch Length: 3.0 (This length mimics hand quilting.)
• Stitch Width: 0.0
• Needle: Quilting Needle
• Needle Thread: White Cotton (For a non-traditional quilting pattern look, try a needle thread that contrasts or blends with your quilt top.)
• Bobbin Thread: A thread that matches the color of your Minky quilt backing. It will blend in nicely.
• Place a pin at the 4 Block Center Patch middle seam. This will become your center reference for marking 90 degree vertical reference lines on Border 1
• Make the center line for Border 1. Draw a line from the 4 Block Center Patch middle seam down the entire 5.75 inch depth of Border. It will give you a nice and straight center registration line for the Open Toe Walking Foot Seam Guide Bar to follow as you make your first vertical line of stitches on Border 1.

Close up showing the center registration line on Border 1 is an extension of the center seam of the 4 Block Center Patch.

Tip:

Heat erasable marking pens are perfect for marking easy to see lines.

• Use a measuring gauge to mark additional vertical lines spaced 1 inch apart or as needed.

Tip:

Avoid quilting noticeably slanted lines on your border. Draw vertical registration lines to help check the accuracy of your 90 degree line before stitching. It is easier to make minor adjustments as you quilt your border, than to pick out a section of slanted quilted lines.

• Attach the Walking Foot with Guide Bar.
• Use a 1.5 inch distance between the Walking Foot Guide Bar and the needle.
• Position the Walking Foot Guide Bar at the top of the first drawn line on Border 1.

Walking Foot Guide Bar Positioned on Border 1 Center Registration Line.

• Raise the bobbin thread.
• Position the needle and bobbin thread tails to the back of the Walking Foot to avoid them getting tangled in your stitches.

Let’s quilt this Border 1!

Hold the needle and bobbin threads as you take your first stitches. This will avoid thread nesting. Sew your first line of straight stitches. At the end of your stitches – raise your bobbin thread and give yourself a long thread tail for easier knot and thread tails burying.

Use the Walking Foot Guide Bar to sew additional straight lines across the width of Border 1. Doesn’t this vertical quilting pattern remind you of piano keys?

Close up of Border 1 showing vertical quilting lines

Congratulations you just created another quilting pattern with your Walking Foot! Use this method to quilt the entire width of Border 1.

Tip:

Follow the golden rule of quilting and start stitching your vertical lines at the center of Border 1. Flip the quilt around so that you can finish quilting the width of Border 1 by starting your stitches in the middle again. This avoids bunching, creasing and puckering of the quilt top. Ask me how I know this!

How To Create the Border 2 Quilting Pattern

Repeat the Wavy Line Quilting Pattern used on the 4 Block Center Patch but adjust it so that at least two lines of quilting can be accommodated in the width of Border 2.

Position the Walking Foot Guide Bar so that it travels along the seam between Border 1 and Border 2. Raise the bobbin thread and give yourself a long thread tail for easier knot and thread tail burying later. Bring the needle and bobbin thread tails to the back of the walking foot to avoid them getting tangled in your stitches.

Hold the needle and bobbin threads as you take your first stitches. This will avoid thread nesting. Sew your first line of wavy line stitches. At the end of your stitches – raise your bobbin thread and give yourself a long thread tail for easier knot and thread tails burying.

Use the Walking Foot GuideBar to sew additional wavy lines across the width of Border 2.

Repeat this for all four sides of Border 2.

Well Done. Border 2 is quilted and you are finished quilting!

Close up of Border 2 Wavy Line Quilting

Tip:

It is best to machine baste the perimeter of your quilt if your fabric is slippery or sheds. Minky fabric has a gorgeous soft & cuddly feel. It is very durable BUT it can be slippery and it sheds. Do yourself a favor – have a sticky lint roller handy to clean up the shedding. You might even wear a chef’s apron to protect your clothes. Ask me how I know this!

The walking foot is your best option for basting. Before you baste your quilt, use your favorite method to trim and ‘Square Up’ your quilt. Or try mine. See “How To Trim and ‘Square Up’ Your Quilt”.

Basting Prep List

• Use a contrasting thread color in the needle and bobbin. This will make it easier to see the basting stitches later as you sew the binding to the quilt.
• Use the Zig Zag Needle Plate for your sewing machine. You will need to adjust the needle position away from the center position.  
• Attach the Walking Foot without the Guide Bar.
• Adjust the needle position so that your basting stitches will be within the ¼ inch seam allowance. It is recommended that you move the needle position two positions to the right of the center position.
• Choose a Straight Stitch.
• Change the stitch length to the longest that your machine can do. The recommended minimum stitch length is 4mm.
• Stitch width should be 0
• No need to backstitch at the start and end of sewing. Backstitching will make it harder to remove the basting stitches if you choose to do so after you have attached the binding to the front of the quilt. See “Step 8”.

Now You Are Ready To Baste The Entire Perimeter Of Your Quilt

Tip:

After the binding is sewn to the front of the quilt you may remove the basting stitches. However, with the slippery Minky backing fabric it is best to let the basting stitches stay in place. The basting stitches will help keep the quilt perimeter under control. Ask me how I know this!

                                                                Close up of yellow basting stitches

Trim & ‘Square Up’ your quilt.

Use your favorite method to trim and square up your quilt. Or try my favorite method in the Madam Sew blog “How To Trim and ‘Square up’ Your Quilt”. You will lose some width from Border 2. That’s ok. It will not negatively change the look of your quilt top because you made Border 2 substantially larger than Border 1.

Your Are Ready To Bind The Quilt – With the most popular use of the Walking Foot!

Binding Prep List

• Choose a color thread that matches or coordinates with the color of your binding.
• Use a Zig Zag Needle Plate. (You may need to change the needle position to achieve an accurate ¼ inch seam.)
• Choose a Straight Stitch.
• Use a 2.0 Stitch Length. (This shorter stitch length helps to create a stronger seam.)
• Use a Stitch Width of 0.
• Attach the Walking Foot without the Guide Bar.

Let’s begin to bind the quilt.

Choose one of the shorter sides to begin to bind the quilt.

Position the binding to sew the binding to the front of the quilt.

Use a 6 inch binding tail at the beginning of binding the quilt.

Leave a 12 inch gap on the quilt between the start of binding and the end of binding. Pin where the 12 inch gap starts and ends. (This gives you space to join the binding tails when you are finished sewing the binding to the perimeter of the quilt front.)

Pin the binding to the quilt using long, sharp flat head pins.

Miter each corner of the binding using the traditional method. See Part 3 of the Madam Sew Blog: How To Sew On Binding On A Quilt.

Join the binding tails. See the Madam Sew method in the video: How to Perfectly Bind A Quilt With A Edge-Joining Foot.

Don’t forget your quilt label.

On the back of your quilt choose a corner to position your quilt label so that two sides of the label will be sewn into the binding. This will save time when you are hand sewing the quilt label to the back of the quilt. You will only need to sew two sides!

Use your favorite method to sew the binding to the back of the quilt.

Tip:

Test your binding seam allowance. Stitch about 20 stitches and check your seam. Is it an accurate ¼ inch? Does half of the binding wrap around to the back of the quilt?

Remember: Your basting stitch should be within the seam allowance.

If the binding seam does not produce the desired outcome, then rip out those stitches, adjust and start again. It is easier to rip out 20 binding stitches than all the binding stitches on an entire side of your quilt.

Close up of Binding The Quilt Using The Walking Foot Without the Guide Bar. The foreground shows long, sharp, flat head pins attaching the binding to the quilt.

Wow, you have accomplished a lot with the Open Toe Walking Foot with Guide Bar! You’ve: Pieced your quilt blocks, pieced your quilt borders, created your own wavy line quilt pattern for a 4 Block Center Patch, created your own “piano keys” quilt pattern, created your own wavy line quilt pattern for a Quilt Border, basted your quilt perimeter and used the walking foot to bind your quilt.

                                              Congratulations! Your quick and easy mini quilt is finished

And this is just the beginning of your quilting adventures. Try some of the many fun and easy projects in the Madam Sew blog tutorials featuring the Walking Foot.

• Thirty Minute Makeup Bag Madam Sew How-To Blog
• Cosmetic Case Madam Sew How-To Blog
• DIY Quilted Hot Pads For Your Kitchen Madam Sew How-To Blog
• Sewing Machine Organizer Madam Sew How-To Blog Video

May your quilting always bring you joy!

Ernie Grant
Guest Blogger For Madam Sew

Ernestine “Ernie” Grant is an avid quilter with over 17 years experience and is the owner of the custom baby quilt business www.kalibabyquilts.com. As an African American living in Harlem, NY her view of quilting is shaped by her heritage and the elders who taught her – Quilting is not just thread, fabric and stitches. It is art, it is love, it is community.