This “How to Sew” a Calico Puzzle Quilt Block tutorial is the fourth block in my series toward creating a small sampler quilt. If you do not want to make a sampler quilt, you can use this simple block pattern to make one block projects such as pillows, or use multiple blocks to make bigger projects such as table runners.

This project is still in the Beginner to Confident Beginner range as it is made up of squares and half-square triangles. You can use fat quarters to make one block or a few. For larger projects, shop your fabric stash and use this quick and easy block to help you use some of the wonderful fabrics you already have.

I chose the Calico Puzzle quilt block pattern because the name reminds me of the type of fabric, “calico”, often associated with quilts and because I like puzzles so I was intrigued. This block lends itself well to the making of larger quilts with or without sashing between the blocks.

This block is considered another variation of a nine-patch quilt block. Many quilt blocks go by multiple names but this one seems to always be referred to as Calico Puzzle Quilt Block. It first appeared in print in the KC Star in 1939 (Brackman, 204). This block lends itself well to both traditional and modern quilts. See some of the quilt project color options at the end of this blog.

This easy quilt block pattern is fat quarter friendly and uses square and half-square triangles and comes together quickly. Our finished block will measure about 12” x 12” when sewn together.

For this tutorial, I am using a fat quarter bundle that has five coordinating fabrics. I used this bundle for my last three blocks, (see Sheepfold Quilt Block tutorial, Virginia Worm Fence Block tutorial and Thrifty Quilt Block tutorial). I will be using this same fat quarter bundle for one more block for my small sampler quilt.

Let’s get started!

• Three coordinating fabrics (a fat quarter of each)

• Ironing board or pressing mat

• Iron

• Rotary cutter

• Cutting mat

• 6” x 24” cutting ruler

• 6” x 12” cutting ruler (optional)

• 6” x 6” square cutting ruler

• Pins

• Magnetic Pin Holder

• Sewing machine

• ¼” Quilting Foot with Guide (optional)

• ¼” Quilting Foot

• Matching or neutral thread

• Thread snips or small scissors

• Seam ripper (just in case)

• Quarter Inch Patchwork Ruler Set (optional)

• Heat Erasable Marking Pens or other marking pen/pencil

• Clips

For my block, I chose to use three bright colors. If you use four colors, you’ll need to adjust your measurements accordingly. You’ll also have to do the same if you are using larger pieces of fabric or scraps instead of fat quarters (typically 18” x 22”) or making smaller or bigger blocks.

NOTE: Because I’m using one fat quarter bundle for all of the blocks in this five block series. I had to make adjustments along the way when I made my block and you will too if you are doing the same. The instructions in this blog are based on using full fat quarters for this project.

In the below block key diagram, the letters represent different fabric colors and the numbers represent different shapes. This key will be referenced in the instructions below.

NOTE: Each finished square or half-square triangle in this nine-patch block will be 4 ½” square before we attach them to each other.

Press your fat quarters to get the fold creases out. If you are having trouble getting the creases out as sometimes happens, you can spray a little water on the fabric before pressing. Then, cut off any selvages. Also straighten one long side.

NOTE: Fat quarters only have selvage on one side

From fabric A: Cut one 4 ⅞” x 21/22” strip. Then cut cut two 4 ⅞” x 4 ⅞” squares from this strip. These will be used later to make our half-square triangles.

From the remainder of this strip, cut a 4 ½” square. Set remaining fabric aside for future projects.

From fabric B: Cut one 4 ⅞” x 21/22” strip. Then cut cut two 4 ⅞” x 4 ⅞” squares from this strip. These will be used later to make our half-square triangles.

NOTE: You could cut fabric B the short way but then that can limit your use of remaining pieces on future blocks in this series.

From fabric C: Cut one 4 ½” x 21/22” strip. Then cut this strip into four 4 ½” squares. Set remaining fabric aside for future blocks or projects.

We are going to make our half-square triangles now. For these, I use a Quarter Inch Patchwork ruler.

Take one 4 ⅞” fabric A square and one 4 ⅞” fabric B square. Put them with the right sides together and the lighter of the two fabrics on top.

Using the Quarter Inch Patchwork Ruler, line up the middle line of the ruler with the two opposite corners and draw a line on both sides of the ruler. You will be using these lines as your sewing guide and sewing a thread or two just inside of those lines.

Tip: Heat Erasable Marking Pens work great for this step. That way, if you accidentally bump your finger while making the line, you can quickly erase the lines with the heat of an iron and try again. I have had to do this a few times myself.

Tip: If you don’t have this handy ruler, you can always make a line from one corner to the other and then sew a scant ¼” away from the line on each side.

Repeat with the other 4 ⅞” fabric A square and 4 ⅞” fabric B square.

For sewing the lines, I used a ¼" quilting foot. Most sewing machines come with this foot. It is also available as part of our Ultimate Presser Foot Set.

I use a leader scrap as I start my sewing. This way if there are any issues with the machine or thread nests formed, they happen on the leader not on my project pieces. To do the same, sew over a scrap piece of fabric and stop sewing when the edge of the scrap is just before the needle. Do not raise your presser foot. Take a look at the stitching on this piece. Once you are satisfied that your stitches look good and there are no issues, continue with this step.

Using the lines we drew with the Quarter Inch Patchwork Ruler, sew one or two threads inside of those lines. This gives us the scant quarter inch everyone is always talking about.

Do the same with the remaining A and B fabric squares. When done sewing, using a cutting ruler, mat and rotary cutter, cut down the middle between your sewn lines going from corner to corner.

Use a rolling seam presser or iron and press your half-square triangle units open. I recommend pressing toward the dark side so your seams don’t show through the lighter fabric.

Now, cut off the little ears. And, if needed, square up your half-square triangles so they are 4 ½” square. I like to use my 6” square ruler to square these small pieces.

We are about to sew our squares and half-square triangles into rows. But before you do, use the below Row Layout Diagram to lay out all of your blocks units.

Be particularly careful on how you lay out your half-square triangles. I always do this before sewing a block. This is a good cross-check to make sure you have all of the units needed and that they are in the correct position for the quilt pattern you are making. Doing this also helps facilitate chain piecing.

We are going to chain piece to save on thread and time. This time, use two small scrap fabric pieces so that you don’t have to stop chain piecing.

Let’s go!

Sew over one scrap piece and stop sewing when the edge of the scrap is just after the needle. Do the same cross-check of stitching as we did earlier with our leader fabric. Once you are satisfied that your stitches look good you will chain sew as follows:

Starting from the LEFT:

• From Row 1, flip your half-square triangle to the right onto the fabric C square and with right sides facing, sew them together using a ¼” seam allowance. Be careful to not rotate your half-square triangle just flip it onto the fabric C square.

• From Row 2, sew a fabric C square to a fabric A2 square with right sides together using a ¼” seam allowance.

• From Row 3, flip your half-square triangle to the right onto the fabric C square and with right sides facing, sew them together using a ¼” seam allowance.

• Sew through your other fabric scrap and stop once you are at the edge of the scrap.

At this point, clip the threads between your first scrap fabric and between all of your sewn units and the scrap fabric that is currently under the needle on the sewing machine. Lay the sewn units back out in their spots as shown in the below picture. If you accidentally rotated a half-square triangle the wrong way, or sewed the seam in the wrong place, it’s okay…just grab your seam ripper and fix the mistake. Mistakes happen to all of us.

TIP: Keep the sticky notes on your rows for this next step. It makes laying them back out easier.

Now we will continue our chain piecing.

• From Row 1, flip your remaining half-square triangle to the left onto fabric C and sew it on.

• From Row 2, sew a fabric C piece to the fabric A piece.

• From Row 3, flip your remaining half-square triangle to the left onto fabric C and sew it on.

• Sew through a fabric scrap and stop once you are at the edge of the scrap.

Clip the threads between your scrap fabrics and fabric strips. Lay your sewn rows out in order so that they look like the picture below.

Before we go any further, we are going to press our seams. You’ll want to press Rows 1 and 3 in one direction and Row 2 in the opposite direction. After pressing, lay the rows back out again as in the picture above. I like to do this again to make sure I sew the rows together correctly. Then we’ll be ready to sew again.

Now you are ready to finish sewing your block together!

Take Row 1 (top row) and flip it down over Row 2 (middle row) so the right sides are facing together. Line up and nest your seams.

For this next step, use pins next to or in the seams to keep them from moving during sewing. This helps get a more accurate seam in the end. Before you start sewing, double check that the seams or strips didn’t shift while you were pinning. If they did, re-pin now so you don’t have to take out the seam with a seam ripper and re-do everything. (Trust me, I’ve skipped this double check and regretted it.)

Sew these strips together using a ¼” seam allowance. You should get matching seams at the intersections when you are done.

Finally, take Row 3 (bottom row) and flip it up onto Row 2 (middle row) so the right sides are together. Match up and nest your seams. Pin and then sew using a ¼” seam allowance.

For this press, close your strips over themselves so you can see the stitching on the wrong side and press, holding your iron in place for a few seconds to “set” the seams. This step helps nestle the threads down into the fabric so that you will get flatter seams.

Then, open your block and press your seams away from the middle. If the fabrics are of equal or near equal values like mine are, then press out toward the edges of the block.

TIP: If the seams do not easily fall into position for pressing, you can do a quick finger press to encourage them to do so.

Your finished block might not be quite 12” x 12” as the seam sewing may have taken up some of the size. If you are going to make several of these blocks for a project, be consistent in how you make them, straighten their edges and square them up. You may need to square all blocks in a larger project to the “smallest” block you made…or redo your block.

TIP: To square up a block, measure in both directions to see what the shortest width is of your block and square it to that. I like to measure through the middle, and through both corners, better more information than not enough. And…if you have a slightly different way to square up your block, feel free to do what works for you.

Be careful not to over-cut while squaring up. I use my self-healing cutting mat, cutting ruler, and rotary cutter for this part.

You did it, you have a finished Calico Puzzle Quilt Block in six simple steps. It’s that easy!

There are many different projects this block would be great for so don’t limit yourself.

Here are a few ideas to get your started.

• Mini Wall Hanging

• Table Center Piece

• Throw quilt

All of these projects would come together quickly and make lovely decor pieces for your home or lovely gifts to give to someone.

Making a single block project allows you to experiment with color. Have fun with the colors you choose. It’s amazing how changing the colors changes the feel of the block.

Here are these blocks in a 4x4 layout showing how these color changes will affect the overall effect on the project.

You get the picture :)

Have fun and don’t be afraid to experiment!

Today, you learned how to make a simple quilt block that is fast and easy to sew. The final designs and project possibilities with the Calico Puzzle quilt block are many. We would love to see your color combinations and the projects you made using the Calico Puzzle quilt block. It’s so encouraging to see what everyone does. Share them with us on our Facebook Page!

Like to have a written copy to follow? Print out the PDF for the Easy Quilt Block Pattern: Calico Puzzle.

I hope all of the steps in this quilt tutorial are clear and you had fun making your block. If you are a complete beginner and you need more guidance for quilting in general, you can take a look at our extensive quilting beginner guide.

Cathy Jaynes

Product Developer and Quilt Blogger for MadamSew.com

cathy@madamsew.com 

Work Cited:

Brackman, Barbara. Encyclopedia of Pieced Quilt Patterns. American Quilter’s Society, 1993.

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