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The Reversible Summer Hat For Kids Tutorial

Summer is there and we are ready to go camping. We’re hoping for sunny days and my little blond girl needs a new summer hat. In this post I’m sharing a tutorial with you based on a pattern by Miekk (www.byMiekk.nl). It’s a fisherman's hat that will work for both girls and boys!

The pattern comes in 4 sizes: 18”, 19”, 20” and 21”. Your kid can even wear it on both sides! I used some lovely striped fabric from a bundle we sell on our website. 

Do measure your child’s head to select the size. I used the biggest size for my 7 year old girl.

You need: 

1. Sturdy cotton or linen or you can make regular cotton or linen fabric more sturdy by adding some interfacing). I used a bundle from our website and used some pale blue linen for the inside (leftover from an Ikea curtain). You’ll have enough with 2 fat quarters for one side or a piece of 20” by 22”. So in total you’ll need 4 fat quarters or 40” x 44”. 

2. Fusible interfacing 20” x 22”, mid-weight or heavy, depending on how stiff your fabric is and how stiff you want the hat to be. I used mid-weight. 

3. Tools: sewing machine, iron, matching threads, pins or clips, fabric marking pen, scissors 

4. Optional: an adjustable guide foot & edge joining foot

Cut out of both fabrics 

1 x A : crown tip 

2 x B : side band (cut on the fold) 

2 x C: brim (cut on the fold) 

So, if you’re using 1 type of fabric you need 2 crown tips, 4 side band pieces and 4 brim pieces.

Steps: 

1. Print the pdf pattern, 100%, no scaling. Download the PDF pattern here

2. Cut the pattern, copy it onto your fabric and cut. You don’t need to add extra seam allowance. All 3 parts are cut on the fold.

3. Iron some fusible interfacing to the different pieces to add some stiffness to the fabric. Mainly for the brim

MAKE TWO HATS 

4. Put the 2 B pieces together, right sides facing. Pin along both short sides and sew together at 1/4”. Do the same for the C pieces. Press the seams open. You have 2 circles now, 1 for the brim (C) and 1 for the side band (B) 

5. Align the curve of the brim with the curve of the side band of the hat. Pin the two circles together, the longest side of the side band (B) onto the shortest side of the brim (C), right sides facing and match the 2 seams you just stitched and then spread the fabric evenly. Sew together around this circle and be careful not to create any pinches.

6. Pin/clip the crown tip (A) on the side band (B), right sides together. Fold it in half and mark it so you can spread the fabric evenly. Sew around the crown tip.

7. Topstitch the 2 circles: Pin all the seams to the side band and top stitch close to the edge of the side band. I used an edge joining foot to stitch close to the edge. Put the guide in the crease and your needle in the left position, if not, you will stitch in the ditch.

Now repeat step 4-7 with the other pieces (lining). In the end you’ll have 2 hats.

ASSEMBLE THE TWO HATS 

1. Place the two hats together, right sides facing. Pin around the outer perimeter of the brims. The hats should fit inside each other.

2. Now put the two hats together, right sides facing. Pin the brims together and sew around at the 1/4″ seam allowance. Leave a 2” opening to be able to pull the hat trough.

3. Cut the excess fabric of and make small cuts in the seam around the side band, leave 1” between the cuts.

4. Pull the hat through the opening you left in the brim. The wrong sides are now inside the hat. Make sure the 2 hats are aligned. Pin/clip the brim and the hole.

5. You can choose to topstitch the brim only at the outermost edge and at the seam where the side band and the brim meet, but I love a hat with rows of topstitching, so I did mine that way. The topstitching helps to strengthen the brim, this way your hat will be less floppy. I used an adjustable guide foot to help me sew even curved lines. This foot turned out to be a great help! Because it’s the first time I used this foot I added some information about this new tool in the box below. 

For the edge stitches on the brim, I used my edge joining foot again. That’s the presser foot that I use the most. I just love it.

Before using the adjustable guide foot I marked the distances for the lines, just the starting points with my erasable fabric marker, to spread the rows evenly and then sewed away. Look at the result. Incredible how fast I got a neat result!


If you need a precise line for a seam or a hem, the adjustable guide foot is a great help. It’s ideal for quilting or any project that requires consistent sewn seams or topstitching. The foot guides from the top. You don’t have to peek underneath to look at the guides on your sewing plate or spend time drawing lines on the fabric.

This foot is a big help for beginners but also the more experienced seamstresses are very happy with this tool to give their projects a more professional look.

Simply line up the guide to the edge of your fabric and sew away.

Each click of the plastic guide is 1/16 of an inch and each red mark is 1/8 of an inch, giving you a variety of different seam allowances from 3/8 inch up to 1 1/2 inch (depending on how you shift your needle and the other options you may have on your sewing machine).

It’s a universal snap-on foot for low shank sewing machines but with the right adapter, you can use it on almost any sewing machine on the market.

The adjustable guide foot makes sewing straight lines a breeze, on hems, seams or quilts!

 

 


And.. tadaaaa.. my daughter all happy with her lovely new hat 💜

It’s a fairly easy project and also a great gift. Just look for that perfect fabric, maybe with a cute animal print and you’re ready to go!

An

Sewing aficionado and keen sewing blogger/vlogger.

An is Madam Sew’s dedicated creative brain, writing and filming insightful, inspirational content for the sewing enthusiast.

PS: DO share this blog post - just give clear credit to MadamSew, including our original blog post link. Thanks!

Download the PDF Version of this tutorial here!


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