Get ready for Halloween with this Harry Potter Robe pattern for all sizes! And if you can find cheap fabric, you can make this robe for about 10 dollar, including the patch which I got for 3 dollars on Etsy. You know that the luxury store bought robes are sold at 80 dollars!
I have 2 Harry Potter fans in my house and my husband and I also read the books and saw all the movies :-). We went to Scotland this summer, took a ride on the Harry Potter steam train across that beautiful bridge and it triggered our children’s fascination again for the Wizard World and the Hogwarts school of witchcraft and wizardry.
So they want to be Harry Potter and Ginny Weasley or Fred Weasley and Luna Lovegood.. :-) Whatever character they choose.. If they go to school at Hogwarts, they need a school uniform and the most important part of that uniform is the cape.. the wizard robe! The robes are black, the lining depends on the house the student belongs to. My kids only want to be with Gryffindor so wine red and black are our family’s colors.
I looked around for a pattern and with the help of a free Burda project description (the link is at the end of this post) I made you a zero waste pattern. Really ! No printing needed. I tried to explain as clearly as possible how to measure and draw the pattern directly on your fabric.
The pieces are really big so I did a little work on the floor because my cutting table isn’t big enough. So if you are up for it, put on some comfy pants, clear out some space and go down :-)
Black synthetic lightweight fabric (polyester):
→ 2 times the length from neck to floor + 20”
If it’s for a child, neck to floor 35” or smaller and your fabric width is 60” or more, you can manage with the length just once. For my daughter I had enough with that. For my son I needed more fabric.
Synthetic lightweight fabric (polyester) for the lining (wine red for Gryffindor-lovers):
→ 1 time the length from ankle to shoulder + 20”
Erasable Fabric Marking pens & ruler
Matching threads, sewing machine & needle, pins
2 black buttons and a piece of black cord or elastic (6”)
Optional: order an embroidered iron-on or sew-on patch, I found mine on Etsy.
You need the following measurements from the person that wants the robe: the length..
- from neck to floor
- the shoulder, just one side
- the neck
- the arm length
- the upper arm width
The Pattern Parts
The pattern has 4 different parts
- The front: 2x in black fabric
- The back: 1x on the fold in black fabric
- The sleeves 4x on the fold (2x in the lining fabric and 2x in black fabric)
- The front lining stripe+hood: 2x in the lining fabric
Step1: Draw The Patterns On Your Fabric
1.1. The front piece
Start with the front piece. This one is the most difficult. If you have this one, the rest is a piece of cake… I tried to get pictures of me drawing on the fabric but it was too hard, the measurements being too big to get it clearly on camera. So I’m drawing it step by step on paper.
- Double fold your fabric
- Draw a vertical line : length of person + 16” (= hood length). Mark the crossing: point 3.
Mark point 1 at right top corner: 16”, this is the depth of the hood
Mark point 2 at the bottom right corner, 15 to 20”: this is the width of the robe
The total width of the bottom part robe for an adult is about 40”. For my children I adjusted the width to 30”, so my rectangle is only 15” wide.
3.Draw a vertical line of 4 inch wide (----) from the bottom of the robe till the neck (where the hood and the robe come together). This is where the front lining stripe will be attached. This line is not a cutting guide!
4. For the shoulder: Where the hood and the robe come together (point 3) you draw a horizontal line. This one measures: 4" (point 4) + the shoulder length. This is point 5.
5. The armhole: You need the upper arm width/ divided by 2 and add 2”. If you want wider arm holes, add more inches. This is the depth. Go down from point 3 and draw point 6. From 6 you draw another horizontal line for the armhole point (7) : measure 4” + shoulder width + 3".
6. Draw the curved armhole line from point 5 to 7.
7. Draw a straight line from 7 till 2.
8. Draw a line from 4 to 1 and put a marking at half the neck length. This is point 8
1.2. The back piece
Draw the back piece on the fold. You can copy the front piece without the hood, so cut out the front piece first.
To draw the neckline, you draw a diagonal line of half the neckline dawn towards the fabric fold
1.3. The front lining strip
For the front lining strip, copy the hood part of the front piece and draw a 4” wide strip to it.
1.4. The sleeves
For the sleeves: start with the arm length, draw this line on the fold. Start the other sleeve line 2” lower.
The sleeve is 10” to 12” wide.
For the curve, use the curve you drew for the armhole. Put a marking where the curve stops.
You need 4 sleeves: 2 in the black fabric and 2 with the lining. You can cut them on the fold or sew both sides together.
STEP 2: cut out all the other pieces
You need the front piece to draw the other pieces.
You’ll end up with this:
2 Front Pieces
1 Back Piece
2 Lining Strip Pieces
4 sleeves in 2 colors, draw & cut 1 sleeve and then copy the other 3 and cut
Now you can set up your sewing machine & serger with black and/or red thread. In step 3 to 7 you assemble the pieces.
STEP 3: Sew The Hood
Put the front parts together, right on right, sew the seams marked A & B
Don’t stitch further than point 8
If you want, you can use a serger or overlock stitch to finish the edges, they are between the fabrics, so you don’t see them, but my fabric unraveled terribly so I serged all the edges.
STEP 4: Shoulders & Neckline
Take the front and the back piece. Pin the neckline (E) from the front piece to the neckline of the back piece, right sides together. Do the same for the front & back part of the shoulders (F), right on right. This one is difficult to show in a picture but with the hood already assembled, it will be clear how to put these 2 seams together.
Sew the shoulder & neck seams (marked E & F).
Finish with your serger or an overlock stitch.
STEP 5: Close The Side Seams
Right on right, sew seam G.Finish with your serger or an overlock stitch.
STEP 6: Attach The Lining
Sew the lining along the whole front, including the hood (seam H), right on right.
Now turn, press and topstitch along the front. I changed the bobbin thread to red. I used my edge joining foot for this job. It helps to stitch very close to the seam.
Finish the edges with your serger or an overlock stitch
STEP 7: The Sleeves
Put the sleeves together. Right on right. Sew both long seams (or just 1 if you cut on the fold) of both the lining and your black fabric. Don’t close your arm hole :-). Sew until the start of the curve of your arm hole (you marked it in step 1.4.)
Sew together the lining and the top fabric along the opening, right sides together, turn, press and topstitch along the opening.
Take the front & back piece. I put in the lining and the black fabric together, this is not the right way to do this job, but it goes faster and there is no hand sewing involved. So pin the 2 fabrics to the arm opening, right sides together (or black on black fabric) and sew.
Again use your serger/overlock stitch to finish the edges.
STEP 8: Hem The Bottom
I finished it with my serger. You can also finish the edge with a rolled or a folded hem.
STEP 9: 3 Finishing Touches
- To not have the lining peek on the outside, you can attach it by hand with little stitches or use iron on seam tape from shoulders to the hem.
- Sew on 2 black buttons on breast height, one on each side and attach a little loop on one side under one of the buttons and make a loop for the other button. For my son I used a piece of buttonhole elastic.
- Iron or sew on the badge of your house
And... all done. Dress-up fun guaranteed!
First time I have the costumes ready more than 1 month before D-Day… thanks to you guys!!
Sewing aficionado and keen sewing blogger/vlogger.
An is Madam Sew’s dedicated creative brain, writing and filming insightful, inspirational content for the sewing enthusiast.