How to Sew a Professional Blind Hem

If you are like me, many of the clothes you buy need alterations… I used to pay someone to sew a blind hem on my skirts and pants. Silly, since I can sew. You can too, and you also can do a professional job hemming your pants and skirts with just a few steps and two special presser feet for your sewing machine from Madam Sew’s Ultimate Presser Foot Set, the narrow hem foot and the blind stitch foot.

Presser Feet for Blind Hemming, narrow hem foot and blind stitch foot

In this post, I’ll show you how to do a blind hem stitch on your sewing machine to create a professional looking hem. It’s easier than it looks, and you’ll save tons of money if you learn how to hem pants yourself.

Step 1: Mark Your Hem

To begin, put your garment on and have someone else mark the lower edge of where the hem should be on your pants or skirt, while you are wearing the shoes you intend to wear with the garment. You’ll need to stand straight with your arms at your sides. Believe it or not, this does make a difference. Heel height will change the finished length of both pants and skirts as your hip position changes with higher heels. Add 1-2 inches to turn under, depending on how much fabric you have, and the look you want. I use one inch for pants and two inches for skirts, in general. Cut off the excess fabric evenly and straight.

Step 2: Finish the Raw Edge

Hems look best with the raw edge finished prior to hemming. You can use a serger for this, but if you don’t have a serger, here’s how to get that professional look, using the Rolled Edge foot (#30 in the Ultimate Presser Foot Set).

Rolled Hem Foot

Attach the foot to your sewing machine. Begin the rolled hem near a side seam for a skirt, and start pants near the inseam. Pin under the raw edge about 1/4-inch to the wrong side with only one pin; the foot will do the rest. Take a few stitches in the hem edge to anchor it, then remove the pin.

Starting a Rolled Hem

Next, pull the raw edge into the roll of the foot.

Guide Fabric into the Rolled Hem Foot

Take a few more stitches. The fabric will begin to feed itself.

Sewing a Rolled Hem

Continue sewing the narrow rolled hem all the way around your garment.

Rolled Hem

At the end, you’ll have a nicely finished edge to use for your blind hem. This rolled hem can be used alone for table covers, napkins, wide skirts, scarves, or anything where a very narrow hem is desired.

Finished Rolled Hem

Step 3: Fold Fabric and Press

For better clothing though, you don’t want the line of stitching to show on the outside of the garment, so this next step will give you the professional blind hem look of a quality sewn garment.

Turn up the desired hem depth, in this case one inch, and use an iron to press a crease at the bottom where the hem will finish

Create a Crease for Blind Hem

Now, fold the hem backwards, with the right side of the bottom edge folding outward to the right side of the garment. This will expose the underside of the rolled edge you just did, and provide a fold for the blind hem foot to follow. You’ll begin sewing on the wrong side of the hem edge.

How to Fold Fabric for Blind Hem

Mash the fold flat, close to the finished edge of the first hem, but do not iron it. The exact position will vary a bit depending on the stitch on your machine. It is a good idea to do a practice scrap first to be sure your settings are right.

Fabric Ready for the Blind Hem Stitch

Step 4: Sew the Blind Hem Stitch

Set your machine for a blind hem stitch. This setting will make three stitches in the rolled edge, then bite over to the fold for one stitch. Replace the foot on your machine with the #8 Blind Hem Foot. Adjust the plastic fold guide to accommodate your machine’s blind hem width. Do a practice bit first to be sure your guide is in the right place.

Blind Hem Foot

Begin sewing your blind hem stitch on the rolled edge. The rolled edge should be even with the right edge of the opening in the foot, with the folded edge riding along the plastic guide. The tab on the guide will run under the fold.

How to Position the Blind Hem Foot

The stitch will bite over to the left for one stitch, then return to the rolled edge for three more stitches.

Blind Hem Catching Fabric

Continue sewing all the way around the hem. When finished, pull the hem flat.

Finished Blind Hem Stitch from Inside of Garment

Then press.

Pressing Finished Blind Hem

On the outside, you’ll only see small stitches spaced evenly apart. When you get farther away, the stitches virtually disappear.

Close-up View of Blind Hem from Right Side of Garment

On wool pants, the hem is almost invisible. The following photo shows a blind hem I did about a year ago and the hem is still strong, withstanding a number of trips through the washing machine and dryer.

Blind Hem on Wool Dress Pants

Even hemming denim jeans becomes an easy task when you use a bind hem stitch.

Blind Hem Stitch on Denim Pants

And poly-cotton blends look just as nice.

Blind Hem Stitch on Cotton/Poly Pants

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Tiny stitches can barely be seen on rayon skirts. From a distance, they virtually disappear.

Blind Hem on Rayon Dress

So you can make your sewing skills pay off in savings, and have better fitting clothes. Just some patience and simple sewing will yield big results.

I hope that you try the blind hem stitch soon. It truly is the best way to sew more professional looking clothes.

Presser Feet for Hemming

Have fun, and Happy Sewing!


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