I have always used an invisible zipper foot to sew invisible zippers because my sewing teacher showed it with the zipper foot and my first sewing machine came with this presser foot. And frankly, for years, I didn’t use invisible zippers that much. But lately, for some reason, different invisible zipper feet projects came on my path. I replaced a zipper in a second hand dress I bought, I made a cover for a little extra bed pillow and I made a top for a Holiday party that is coming up. I couldn’t find my zipper foot last week (these little metal things have a way of disappearing) so I thought, can’t I do this without this foot? And decided to write a blog about it.

If you are just looking for the answer to the main question, scroll down to the last paragraph of this post where I share my findings. In this article, I’ll show you how I managed installing an invisible zipper without the invisible zipper tool, then sew one with the specialty foot so you can see the difference. I’ll dive deep into what this tool exactly is and does, what you can use it for, how to use it, and share some tips and examples.

An invisible zipper, sometimes also called a concealed zipper, is a type of zipper that is designed to be hidden within a seam. Unlike regular zippers, invisible zippers have teeth that curl to the back, hiding the zipper entirely behind fabric when installed correctly.

If you want to learn more about zippers in general, I’ve written another blog post about this topic specifically: Understanding Everything About Zippers. In this blog post I’m showing you different types of zippers, different ways of installing them and the different zipper feet that are on the market.

Invisible zippers are typically made from lightweight materials, making them ideal for delicate fabrics like silk, chiffon, and lightweight cotton, but they can also be used in heavier materials with the right techniques. Their subtle design makes them a favorite for formal wear, such as wedding dresses and evening gowns, as well as for tailored clothing and accessories.

Did you know that you can easily change the size of an invisible zipper? You can move the little metal stop to wherever you want on the zipper coil and just cut the part off you won’t use. So a good tip is to always buy your zipper a longer so you can make it fit perfectly.

An invisible zipper presser foot is a specialized sewing machine attachment designed to sew invisible zippers. The presser foot features two grooves on the underside, which guide the zipper’s teeth and keep them flat as you sew. This ensures the stitching is aligned nicely with the zipper teeth, resulting in a flawless finish where the stitching is very close to the zipper teeth and the fabric covers the zipper completely.

Sewing an invisible zipper without a dedicated presser foot is possible but significantly more challenging. The biggest difficulty comes from the inability to guide the zipper teeth properly, which increases the risk of uneven stitching or sewing too far away from the teeth. Without the grooves of the invisible zipper foot, it’s hard to maintain consistent alignment, and you may end up with visible stitches on the outside of your project, defeating the purpose of an invisible zipper.

Additionally, you’ll need to manually press the zipper teeth flat as you sew, which can be time-consuming and less precise. This increases the chances of puckering or misalignment, especially on delicate or slippery fabrics. For beginners, attempting this without the proper foot can be frustrating and lead to inconsistent results. Even advanced sewists may find the process tedious and more prone to errors.

The invisible zipper attachment is available for most sewing machine brands, often as an optional accessory. You can also find unbranded versions that fit multiple brands of sewing machines. Make sure to choose a presser foot compatible with your sewing machine model. Madam Sew has a 32 pieces presser foot set that has this foot in it.

With an invisible zipper presser foot, you can seamlessly add invisible zippers to the back or side seams from garments or home decor items without detracting from the design. Invisible zippers are most commonly used in garments like dresses, skirts, pants, and blouses. They provide a clean, uninterrupted line, perfect for fitted clothing or elegant formal wear. An A-line skirt with an invisible zipper is a classic wardrobe staple. Sewing a curved seam is also easier with an invisible zipper than with a regular one.

You can use invisible zippers in cushion covers, pillowcases, and decorative shams when you want the zipper to be hidden, leaving only the fabric visible. While not as common as standard zippers for bags, invisible zippers can also be used in smaller pouches or clutches.

Using an invisible zipper presser foot may seem intimidating at first, but it’s surprisingly straightforward. Here’s a step-by-step guide:

Grab the two pieces of fabric that will be joined together with an invisible zipper.

• • • Finish the raw edges that will be sewn onto the zipper with a serger, an overcast or zigzag stitch.

• • Measure where your invisible zipper will need to be. Mark the length of the zipper with a fabric marker from zipper stop to zipper stop and if you want you can also mark the line you will sew the zipper on.

• • Sew the two pieces of fabric together and leave an opening where you zipper will join the two pieces together. It is easiest to sew the seam first and then attach the zipper. This makes sure your seam is neat and clean, but if you want, you can also sew the seam after you’ve installed the zipper.

• • Iron the seam open over the full length, also the part that is not sewn together.

TIP: Press the zipper teeth flat with a low-heat iron to make them easier to sew. Be careful not to melt the plastic teeth.

• • Open the zipper
  • Position one of the ends of the invisible zipper on the right side of the fabric with the zipper pull facing down. The zipper coil is on the line you marked or the crease you ironed at the end of step 1 .
  • Pin or baste the zipper in place. This is along the seam allowance and the edges you finished in step 1.

• • Go over to your sewing machine. Replace your standard presser foot with an invisible zipper foot. This snap-on sewing machine attachment also comes with the Madam Sew Ultimate Presser Foot Set, a 32 pieces set for regular low shank sewing machines.
  • If you want more information on presser feet in general, read this blog post about presser feet for sewing machines first

• • You will sew on the wrong side of the zipper. Position the zipper teeth into the groove on the underside of the presser foot. Choose the groove so your needle is entering the zipper coil just next to the teeth. You probably will need to push the teeth flat a bit (roll them away from the needle) so they sit snugly in the zipper foot’s groove and you won’t sew on top of the plastic coil.

• • After you’ve sewn one side of the zipper, repeat the sewing for the other side.
  • You can move the zipper stop a little, if you want to be able to sew closer to where the regular seam starts.
  • As you will have noticed, you can’t sew all the way to the end of the zipper with the invisible zipper foot, when the zipper pull is in the way. In order to close the seam completely switch back to your regular foot and stitch the remaining part closed. This can be a little wobbly and probably not as snug as the other part of the zipper but you won’t notice from the right side.

• • If you haven’t closed the seam in step 1, stitch the remaining seam below the zipper using your standard presser foot.
  • Press the seams flat for a professional finish.

Yes, of course it is possible to sew an invisible zipper without a zipper foot but it definitely is easier if you do it with a zipper foot.

The result of sewing an invisible zipper with a regular foot is more wobbly and you can’t sew that close to the zipper coil. Here are some details of my little test.

1. 1. Practice on Scrap Fabric: If you’re new to invisible zippers, practice on scrap fabric first. This will help you get a feel for positioning the zipper and using the presser foot.
   2. Use Matching Thread: For a seamless finish, choose thread that matches the color of your fabric and zipper.
   3. Press As You Go: Pressing the zipper teeth flat before sewing and pressing the seam after installation are key to a polished result.
   4. Secure the Zipper Ends: Backstitch at the beginning and end of your zipper to prevent it from coming undone.
   5. Check Your Needle Position: Ensure your needle is correctly aligned to avoid hitting the zipper teeth. Some machines allow you to adjust the needle position for precise stitching.

The invisible zipper presser foot is an invaluable tool for anyone looking to elevate their sewing projects. It simplifies what can otherwise be a tricky and time-consuming process, making it ideal for beginners who want to learn zipper installation and experienced sewists aiming for a professional finish. Additionally, it’s a cost-effective accessory that can dramatically expand your sewing capabilities. Check out our presser foot collection on MadamSew.com.

I think the invisible zipper presser foot is more than just a sewing machine attachment; it’s a gateway to achieving flawless finishes and polished results. So yes, you can sew an invisible zipper without this presser foot but using an invisible zipper foot will make sewing invisible zippers so much easier. Whether you’re sewing garments, home decor, or accessories, mastering this tool will undoubtedly enhance your skills and the quality of your creations. The invisible zipper foot is a pretty indispensable sewing machine attachment, if you want to install invisible zippers with ease and precision. So, give it a try and see how it transforms your sewing projects.

Happy sewing!

An
Blogging for Madam Sew